* Warning: every information contained herein room for reference purposes only. If you execute not feel comfortable working through the vehicle, the is highly-recommended that you usage a well-qualified skilled mechanic/technician to perform any type of work ~ above the vehicle. aramuseum.org is no responsible for any kind of damage or problems caused by use or misuse the this information.

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If you suspect that her 1999-2008 Jaguar S-Type may have actually a damaged/defective:

Air conditioning Climate manage Module (CCM)also well-known as: “AC manage Unit”, “Dual automatically Climate manage (DATC)”

and/or

Dual Coolant manage Valve (DCCV)also well-known as: “Heater Valve”, “Dual Coolant circulation Valve”

…here are some guidelines and solution(s) the will aid you Diagnose that Yourself.

* some of the above terms might be supplied interchangeably transparent this website.

Quick Links:SymptomsPossible causesWhy the Heater Valve can become damagedOverview of common Heater Valve operationWhy the Climate control Module can become damagedClimate manage Module versionsHow to diagnose- Evaporator Temperature SensorsHeater Valve and Climate control Module electrical test procedure- check Procedure A- test Procedure B (highly recommended!)Other symptomsWhat aramuseum.org deserve to do for you

Symptom(s):Driver and/or passenger vent(s) blow(s) hot/warm air only, even when the controls are collection to max cold “Lo” (or any type of other level). This may occur on just the driver side, simply the passenger side, or both sides. It might be intermittent.

Possible causes:1. Fault in the pressurized A/C system, consisting of the compressor, condenser fan, refrigerant pressures, refrigerant leakage, etc.2. Heater Valve is defective. After some time (approximately 3-8 years), corrosion and vibrations cause this ingredient to fail one of two people mechanically and/or electrically (i.e. Water leakage, internal quick circuit, etc.).3. Climate regulate Module is defective. When the Heater Valve i do not care faulty, it starts to attract too much current, which reasons the Climate regulate Module to end up being damaged (i.e. Failure due to over-current condition).4. Harness/wiring problems in between the Heater Valve and also Climate control Module.5. Failure at one or much more air mixing/blending flaps.6. Or a combination of the above cases.

Why the Heater Valve can end up being damaged:1. Corrosion – not sufficient anti-corrosion additive in the coolant.2. Coolant leakage top top its electrical connections.3. Vibrations, old age, etc.

Overview of typical Heater Valve operation:Center pen to the DCCV supplies continuous +12 come 14v strength (straight native the fuse box). That is an energetic low circuit, so when the DCCV look at Ground at either the LH and/or RH pin, the particular solenoid within the DCCV activates.Case 1: Temperature setup “Lo” = CCM calculation ON (grounded) = solenoid ENERGZIED = solenoid valve closeup of the door = coolant circulation to heater core impeded = heater core NOT hot when A/C is ON.Case 2: Temperature setting “Hi” = CCM output OFF (open circuit) = solenoid not ENERGIZED = solenoid valve open up = coolant circulation to heater core enabled = heater core hot when A/C is ON and also coolant is HOT.Case 3: Temperature setup “xx degrees, between Lo and Hi” = CCM output cycles ON/OFF = solenoid cycles ON/OFF = solenoid valve OPENING/CLOSING = coolant flow to heater core partly allowed/impeded = heater main point somewhere in between HOT / NOT hot when A/C is ON.

Notes:- also if the CCM is turned turn off by the user, a non-damaged CCM will certainly continually it is provided the soil signal come the DCCV so the the heater main point doesn’t continue to heat up the ambient air.- over there is an audible click sound once the DCCV solenoid is energized.

Here’s a photo of a faulty Heater Valve that was removed from a 2005 S-Type. Both the its solenoids were illustration too much existing (one of which was tested at end 6 amps, an 850% over-current condition!):

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Why the Climate manage Module can become damaged:There is no over-current fault-protection circuitry that protects it against damage due to faulty Heater Valve. This applies to S-Types from (late 2002) with 2008. The 1999 – (early 2002) modules, though still prone to damage, have actually a more robust design that reduce the chance of claimed damage.

Climate control Module versions:For 2003-2008 models, there space three (3) version of the module. In cars there is no navigation, the CCM is component of the Climate control Assembly. Cars equipped with navigating use a remote Climate regulate Module (RCCM). The RCCM is covert behind the glovebox. Both modules room very similar electrically. Lock are, however, different enough that a nav version cannot it is in substituted for a non-nav variation (unless the entirety nav mechanism is swapped in as well), and vice versa.

Here’s a snapshot of a 2003-2008 S-Type Climate manage Assembly, non-navigation variation (CCM is built-in):

The non-nav unit come either with or without a front defroster (a.k.a. “front heated windscreen”) button:

Here’s a photo of a 2003-2008 S-Type remote Climate control Module (RCCM), found in navigation-equipped cars:

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Do no confuse the navigating head unit because that the CCM or RCCM:

How come diagnose:1. Check procedure of the pressured A/C system, including 134a pressures, leakage, compressor operation, churning/grinding/rattling/buzzing noises at compressor, condenser pan operation, evaporator water drainage, etc.

A/C push sensor/switch:

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A/C low-side fitting:

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A/C high-side fitting:

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2. Check the fuse for the Heater Valve. The is Fuse 32 (10 amps) in the front Power distribution Fuse Box, situated in the engine compartment. This fuse is hot +12 volts at every times, and additionally feeds the auxiliary Coolant Pump Relay (4.0L models) and A/C Clutch Relay.3. Check the connection to the Heater Valve. It is immediately behind the radiator, on the passenger-side, and also buried deep down below the coolant growth tank and also some hoses. Room the connectors secure? Is there any sign that corrosion in the connector terminals? Is the Heater Valve corroded?4. Check the Evaporator Discharge Temperature sensor(s) located under the dash. ~ above the 03-08 S-Type, over there is one (1) sensor at the passenger side, and also two (2) sensors in ~ the the driver side, every attached come the Evaporator housing under the dash, just above the transmission tunnel. Measure up the resistance of each sensor. If one sensor measures an extremely different from the various other two sensors, then it’s time to replace that sensor.

Driver side:

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Passenger side:

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These temperature sensors are basically simply thermistors that differ in resistance as the temperature changes. All 3 (3) sensors room identical, and should law the same means and show similar resistance readings when contrasted side-by-side. If the comparison reflects one sensor come be really different, change that sensor. In addition to the Climate regulate Module, this sensors help to stop freezing (0 degrees C or below) that the moisture on the evaporator coil.5. Perform the Heater Valve check procedure outlined below.

Heater Valve and Climate manage Module electrical test procedure:Overview:The purpose of this electric test is to help us recognize if the Heater Valve is receiving the necessary signals compelled for an easy operation, and also to offer us a general idea of the health of the Heater Valve itself. We can also pre-determine (with 80% certainty) if the Climate regulate Module is damaged or not. The very same test have the right to be carry out on all design years the the S-Type, 1999-2008.

Here is a visual reference for the contact (Heater Valve side) you will be taking measurements at. The plug (harness side), though no illustrated, is basically just the adjustment connector come this:

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Pin 1 is because that for driver-side control.Pin 3 is for for passenger-side control.

Necessary tools:- Digital multimeter (to measure up voltage, current, and also resistance).- Insulated test leads/wires through alligator clip ends (to clip onto masculine contacts or stripped wire ends).- Insulated wires, stripped on both ends (to get access to hard-to-reach female contact in the plug).- Socket set, through 12″ (minimum) extension.- Temperature sensor tool/gun (to measure up temperatures at the wait vents and/or heater hoses, optional).- Digital clamp-on DC ammeter w/ mA come 10A range (to leveling the current measurements, optional).

Get access to the Heater Valve:The Heater Valve is located on the passenger-side just behind the radiator. ~ above 03-08 S-Types, look for 3 fastened water hoses. 99-02 models have actually 5 attached hoses.1. Unbolt the Coolant/Water expansion Tank, collection it aside so it doesn’t block access to the Heater Valve.2. Ease the bolt the secures the Heater Valve to the car.3. Revolve the Heater Valve come get accessibility to that connector.

Procedure A (This one is messy. Us recommend the you perform Procedure B instead.):1. Run the engine because that 5 minutes to warmth up the engine coolant.2. Set the temperature controls come max “Lo” because that both driver and also passenger sides.3. Check that the wait is tho blowing warm or warmth (take keep in mind which vents punch hot/warm).4. Examine for heat in the inlet and also outlet hoses attached come the heater valve. Usage a temperature sensor tool/gun or very closely use your hand to feel which hoses are warm or not hot.5. Disconnect the plug native the Heater Valve and also take voltage measurements at only the inner contact in the plug (harness side). It should read 14v or so (during engine operation), because this link goes right to Fuse 32 (10A) in the prior Power circulation Fuse Box.

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6. Take resistance dimensions at the 2 outer contacts in the plug (measure between each contact and a chassis ground). Each must read close to 0 ohms, because each Heater Valve solenoid demands to see a ground “signal” in order to activate. You can contact this a “continuity check.”7. Jumper the plug’s inner contact to the Heater Valve’s inner call so the the Heater Valve can acquire 12v power.8. Jumper one outer contact in the plug come the matching outer contact at the Heater Valve while using the multimeter in collection to measure up current. Be cautious that you don’t short anything through the inner call connection, or friend will view sparks and also blow Fuse 32.9. Repeat the measurement in ~ the other set of external contacts after ~ disconnecting the very first set of outer contacts (don’t disconnect the inner contact connection yet). Each measurement have to read 0.6 come 0.9 amps. A greater value indicates over-current fault in the Heater Valve solenoid.10. With the inner contact still jumpered between the plug and Heater Valve, jumper an outer contact on the Heater Valve to a chassis ground, while utilizing the multimeter in collection to measure up current. Examine to view if any type of vents blow cooler air during this grounding process. Repeat the measurement in ~ the various other outer contact and also check the vents again.11. Shut off the engine.12. Report the results.

Procedure B:If you have a clamp-on DC ammeter and also temperature sensor gun, this check is lot easier/quicker to perform. The is our abridged-version that Jaguar’s Technical company Bulletin (TSB), number JTB00103, date June 13, 2008, applicable to S-Type (X200) VIN: L00600 through N91220, model years 2000-2008. If you review the TSB, you’ll see that it mentions the use of a Midtronics PSC-550 auto Power Supply, however it’s basically just being provided as a clamp-on DC ammeter anyway. Relying on the outcomes of Procedure B, the more complicated Procedure A may still need to be performed.

For her convenience, we have created a practically Test Sheet because that you to publish out and also fill in throughout your testing. You can download it here:

PDF format: Procedure B check Sheet Rev. -PNG format:

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(If friend don’t have a mini clamp-on ammeter, you deserve to still do Procedure B by making use of your constant multimeter to complete only section ii. On the test sheet)

1. Run the engine for 5 minutes to heat up the engine coolant.2. Set the temperature controls to max “Lo” for both driver and passenger sides, and wait 5 much more minutes.3. Confirm that the air is still blowing warm or warm (take keep in mind which vents blow hot/warm).4. Record the driver, center, and also passenger vent temperatures. Record measurements onto the Procedure B test Sheet. Each have to measure 7 levels C (45 degrees F). If either vent temperature is better than 45 levels F, or the difference in between each side is greater than 6 degrees C (10 degrees F), continue to the following step.5. Remove the left-hand fascia end-panel.6. Measure up the voltage, resistance, and/or existing using a clamp-on ammeter or traditional multimeter (see check sheet for additional details) in ~ the brown/green (NG; FC-11) wire, climate at the brown/blue (NU;FC5-12) cable at connector FC5. Uses to VIN L00600 – M45254 only (presumably for the 1999-2002 model years). Record measurements onto the Procedure B check Sheet:

or measure up the voltage, resistance, and/or existing at the brown/green (NG; FC4-9) wire, climate at the brown/white (NW; FC4-10) wire at connector FC4. Applies to VIN M45255 – N91220 only (presumably for the 2003-2008 model years). Record measurements onto the Procedure B test Sheet:

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Each present measurement (using a clamp-on ammeter) should read 0.6 come 0.9 amps. Any higher value shows over-current fault in the Heater Valve solenoid, and the Climate control Module will end up being faulty in the near future. A worth of 0 amps shows fault at either the Heater Valve and/or Climate control Module.7. collection the temperature controls to max “Hi” for both driver and also passenger sides, then repeat all dimensions again.8. Shut off the engine.9. Report the results.

Other symptoms:If her A/C blows cold air on the LO setup and warm air on the hello setting, yet has problems with in-between temperature settings, climate pay extra fist to this notes:

Symptom #1: Air one of two people blows hot or cold only. As soon as the temperature is collection to 66 deg. F or below, the waiting blows full cold. When collection to 67 deg. F or higher, the wait blows full hot, nevertheless of ambient temperature.(These temperature number are supplied as examples only. You might experience this symptom at various other temperature settings.)Possible cause: One or more Evaporator Discharge Temperature sensors might be faulty.

Symptom #2: in ~ temperature settings in between LO and also HI, the vent air temperature fluctuates wildly, or takes very long come respond to a user setting.Possible cause: The In-cabin Temperature/Humidity sensor can be faulty, or just dirty. This sensor is located just above the ignition key lock area. Closely pry off the tiny plastic grill to expose the sensor. Usage an air can to blow the end the dust, and also use a sensor-safe electronic devices cleaning spray come clean the sensor. If the instance improves ~ this, however not enough, climate the sensor might need to it is in replaced. A many parts should come out in order to get accessibility to the sensor, so it is not a quick and also easy task to change this part.

In-cabin Temperature Sensor:

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What aramuseum.org have the right to do for you:Once you have completed the Heater Valve electrical tests, send in your results via the contact form at http://aramuseum.org/contact-us/.

If your test results suggest that her Climate regulate Module may be faulty, or even if you space not maybe to do the tests, you have actually the choice to send in your Climate regulate Module because that a totally free inspection. Come arrange for complimentary inspection, use the contact type at http://aramuseum.org/contact-us/.

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To discover out exactly how to remove your Heater Valve or Climate regulate Module, visit the fix & Upgrade web page at http://aramuseum.org/repair-and-upgrade/.