You are watching: 2002 honda civic electronic load detector

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This is a photograph of the fuse box under the hood, close to the battery. The red squared in area is what is referred to as the ELD, or electrical Load Detector, because that our car. The ELD is basically a existing transformer that monitors the amount of present draw the automobile is pulling native the battery. This amount varies from time to time depending upon what you have actually turned on (various electric devices). The ELD will output .1 - 4.8 volts to the ECU. This reference voltage is what speak the ECU to rise or decrease the ar strength in the alternator, which in turn bumps increase the calculation of the alternator. I have actually recently perform a test on mine charging system, due to the fact that I was / to be having problems with mine amps cut out. I have actually traced it come the mechanism voltage no being high sufficient - i beg your pardon is leading to the battery to be strained. Essentially my battery is shot. Earlier to the subject available though. The ELD. Since all aftermarket electric feeds room pretty lot tapped turn off of the hopeful terminal that the battery, the current path is no flowing through the ELD. What walk this do? all of the amplifiers, LCD monitors, and pretty much anything else that isn"t fed through the factory wiring that the car draw a most current.Since the ELD isn"t detecting any added current draw from the battery, the is walking to store the alternator"s output at minimum (12.3 volts) - just sufficient to keep the battery charged, plus enough to run the equipment of the car. Esstentially this poses two troubles / issues. 1. You are not acquiring the many bang for your buck once you run your stereotype equipment, due to the fact that the system voltage is not at 14.4, but usually reduced unless various other accessories the the car are active. 2. This is going to put a lot of strain ~ above the battery and possibly the charging system. There is one possible remedy to this the I have the right to think of in ~ the minute (besides turning on miscellaneous in the car to bang the device voltage up), and also that is to hardwire a 0-5 volt signal right into the ECU v a rheostat in line, to be able to manually adjust the calculation of the alternator. Why not simply run the 5 volts straight to the ECU? Honda draft this mechanism the way they did for a couple of reasons. The an initial is to save gas. When the alternator isn"t putting out its best power, over there is much less rotational resistance as result of the electric nature that the magnetic fields - this reasons the engine to work less, therefore saving gas. The 2nd reason in mine opinion, would certainly be to conserve wear and also tear top top the alternator. If you to be to drive about with the alternator calculation maxed the end 24/7, her alternator isn"t going to be approximately for also long..... If you decide to try this - i am in no method held responsible for what wake up if you damages your car or yourself! take it this post as details only - I may attempt the above modification myself, yet I don"t setup on doing that anytime shortly (due come the truth that I need my auto all the time at the moment).